Відео

no idea. find a little spring shop i guess.

interesting how?

#887131091. any dealer or google search. www.google.com/search?q=ducati+887131091&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBAU809AU809&oq=ducati+887131091&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIKCAEQABiABBiiBDIKCAIQABiABBiiBDIKCAMQABiABBiiBDIKCAQQABiABBiiBDIKCAUQABiABBiiBDIGCAYQRRhAMgYIBxBFGDzSAQgzNjI1ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

@@bradthebikeboy Thank you !!! that helped alot. Ill order asap

guessing you can't be bothered watching and just want answers huh? i have said many times, if you have no intention of adjusting the clearances, just go and do something else instead of checking anything. there's really no point. do it right, or just don't do it. simple. if you go by the ducati specs it's probably fine. it will be for a long time. want it to run as well as it can? it'll need adjusting. 0.10mm opening clearance, zero closing clearance.

@@bradthebikeboy that's a lot of words for a half-assed answer. Just like your videos, which I did watch through all 5 parts actually, but it's a lot of rambling and not much doing so naturally people skip over a lot of it. No worries, found a more concise and to the point video after I asked that question which answered the simple question I asked.

@@sbk1198 finding an answer that tells you what you want to hear is the trick.

it doesn't matter what i do mate, someone always complains. got any idea how many hours i spend editing these things?

all threaded, with an o-ring under the nut on the inlet.

for 2004 and 2005 model year, yes.

Ok merci, mais ma st3s est de 2006. Dommage

@@michelbelka5763 2006 is a linear tps, reset electronically via a diagnostic tool only. there is no mechanical adjustment.

👍 merci beaucoup pour cette réponse, maintenant il faut que je trouve l’ appareil électronique

no, i'm in melbourne.

if it's all apart i'd set them to 12mm as they fall to closed, not with the carbs fully upside down. no point waiting until it's all together to find it needs to come apart again. occasionally they're off.

and today's award for "delightfully random comment without context" goes to this guy.

get some generic glasses from the chemist with the stronger lenses. +3 are great for helping to see things.

yeah, i wouldn't own them if i had to pay someone to work on them.

​@@bradthebikeboy I always said I like a challenge. But I'm used to the Japanese inline 4 type of challenge. Have you any general advice about getting started in the Ducati world? They seem amazing machines for those prepared for them

@@Khar_Toba it's just a motorcycle, it should be expected to behave as a motorcycle. don't buy into the typical "temperamental italian mistress" bullshit some blokes just love. spend the money to do things properly, or just don't bother.

@@bradthebikeboy Yes I had perceived a bit of mystique which is often nonsense in disguise. Thanks for keeping it real, I'll try not to be deterred by not being familiar

on ds style engines 2005 ish and later they changed the lh journal on the cam to be narrower and further out, and i find on those engines they can get noisy when hot if the belts are tighter than 105hz or so. so i set them at 100hz. you can do whatever you like. experiment and see what you find. the only difference is the possible noise when hot. it's a horrid noise.

i use the genuine tool. well, an old one. 887131062 looks like the one i have. it's just a couple of discs on a threaded rod that pulls them in. does work nicely if you use it well, always use the fixed disc to pull the cone in. otherwise they can cock if you use the floating disc i find. heat is up to you, but it's fairly easy to damage the paint around steering head tubes ime, much more than you'd expect. the steel isn't going to grow a lot, but it can help.

it's not something i usually see on these, just happened to be a compounding issue.

i guess so. the smaller gear on the crank will reduce the torque at the crank, both keys should be fine if the nuts are all tight.

@@bradthebikeboy Thanks 👍

if i was standing next to it and could touch it - i'd start going through the list of what could be wrong. over the internet - no. get someone who knows what they're doing to look at it. or learn. do everything - compression test, check tune, valve clearances, etc. sooner or later you'll find it.

​@@bradthebikeboyyeah i have to do the big desmo service in 3k km so then i have to take it all apart, i thought there might be a easier way to mabye set the idling a bit higher or something but i guess it aint that easy on an injecting bike

@@flegolas3296 it has an idle control valve, so should be taking care of the idle speed itself. you need a diagnostic tool to see what it thinks is happening, and go from there. give the idle control valve a spray with some cleaner - i like the three bond engine conditioner. clean the throttle bodies in case they're gunked up. all sorts of things could be the issue.

@@bradthebikeboy ill start by getting an Diagnostik tool thanks so far tho i didnt know about the idle valve thats a cool Thing

not sure i understand the question. do you mean can you just remove the old belts, fit the new ones, tension them and ride away? of course. i'm doing the cam timing because it has all been apart.

@@bradthebikeboy you doing cam timing because you don't have old belts with marks, right?

@@user-uc4hw4cl3x no. i don't need marks on the belts. i guess you kind of missed the point of a lot of it. it has all been apart, so it's one of the things i do as i reassemble an engine.

@@bradthebikeboy now it's clear)))

​​@@bradthebikeboybut....😊 on an older engine, like m600 can I do without adjusting the camshaft, just use the window on the side of the alternator to set the rollers to the marks and put on and tension the belts setting the number of teeth symmetrically on both belts?

well, the consequences of not doing thigs properly are not something i spend too much time worrying about. but given these are a cam in head engine, having the cam push through the oil film and damage the head is one possibility. also failure of the tensioner bearings is certainly something that some reported when the ds belts were first spec'd at 140 hz. but it's up to you. don't see why you'd bother doing it at all if you're not going to do it right?

@@bradthebikeboy I was just thinking now, wouldnt it be better to use a dinamometer attached to the tentioner, measure the pulling force at 100hz and for next time just use the dynamometer to set the tension. Using some app that measures the frequency of a sound seems an unreliable way to do it, I mean what if you pull harder/softer with your finger when flicking the belt? Surely there has to a better way.

@@giedriusbruzas6542 in my experience, this method works just fine and is very repeatable. it's how ducati decided to do it, so it's the convention as such. you can do it any way you like if some other method makes more sense to you.

? i think that's youtube. it's fine for me, both the original and on youtube. i have noticed that before when watching my videos on youtube. refresh or close and re-open.

cases and covers have been painted, but by me with vht spray and then not hardened with heat really, so it's a bit soft and wearing in places just from moving the cases around. not overly happy with it, but i don't have the skills to 2 pack it. cylinders and heads have been hydro blasted.

so i'm told. we never really worried about it when i was doing them, but that was 15 years ago. might get away with an open-ish cover, but this is going to have a machined primary cover as well, so i'm just asking for it.

it was filmed, but over 3 sessions months apart due to issues and i've tried editing some of it and there's stuff i thought i filmed, but didn't and it's all a bit of a mess. the editing of this stuff can take hours and hours. there's a genuine ducati video you can find on youtube that's pretty good.

@@bradthebikeboy It’s all good, I think I know which Ducati video you’re talking about. I’ve watched it once and the procedure seems pretty straightforward at first glance, but I’m sure there will be some unexpected issues when I actually get down to it. Going to disassemble the heads today and change the cam seals and guide seals. Thanks again.

lucky you!

one of "those guys" huh? i recall doing that years ago when i'd just started and didn't understand the crap implications of draining it out, putting the book amount back in and calling it done. but really, just pull them out and do it properly. set the oil level, don't just pour in a volume.

KitB-43S for the black seals, KitG-43S are green seals. no other difference afaik. i think they made the wacky green colour ones first and then people asked for black ones.

@@bradthebikeboy - Thanks - I found them after a few hours search listed for a Honda CR 125 1987 bike of all things! Apparently dual compound rubber, Red & Green seals are now available but, more expensive (a 'shock' I know) but, I'm very happy to follow your lead - Cheers

LOL

as per my previous response - LOL

i've taken a couple of clothes pegs to work to try - i reckon they'll be a goer.

with the quality of metallurgy these days, things tend to not move very much. you'll find lots of japanese valve spring engines going 100,000km without a shim change. on the ducati engines, the wire collets deform and settle from new so the closing clearances open, but once that process stops they tend to stay much the same. especially if the clearances are tightened and the collets aren't getting beating around. the opening clearances also tend to be fairly consistant. some of the 1100 series engines would lose their exhaust opening clearance before the first check, but once adjusted were fine going forward. lots of 4v engines go many checks without adjustment, even at the tight specs i use. 2v i tend to adjust more closers to keep them right on 0 clearance, but only because it's easy.

yes.